She says: Kyoto – Japan’s cultural heart

Another day, another shinkansen journey – yay! From Hiroshima to Kyoto took us a little over 2 hours, with lots of scenery to enjoy on the way. We had a relatively slow start to the day and didn’t even get on the train until 9:45am. Thank goodness we slept in, because when we got here to Kyoto the mama-san that runs the ryokan (translation = traditional Japanese guest house) we are staying in is VERY strict about her curfews: you have to be out of your room by 10:00am (so they can be cleaned), you cannot re-enter your room until 3:00pm, and doors close for the night at 11:00pm – no exceptions! We arrived at midday and were able to leave our backpacks here, but couldn’t get into our rooms until 3:00pm. No problem – off exploring we went! 

Our shinkansen: just 2 hours to go from Hiroshima to Kyoto.

We started our sightseeing in Shimogy-ku district, one of Kyoto’s many scenic, historical districts. Kyoto was Japan’s capital city for almost 1000 years, from 794AD until 1869AD when Emperor Meiji moved the capital to Tokyo. With such a long history as the centre of Japanese culture and high arts, it is no surprise that Kyoto is still to this day a city of refined culture, fine food and rich traditions. There are so many Buddhist temples, palaces and majestic gardens spread throughout the city that we don’t have a hope of seeing them in all in the 4 days we are here. We’ll give it a damn good go though! 

Starting first and foremost with the Hongan-ji temples: Nishi-Hongan-ji (translation: western Hongan-ji temple) and Higashi-Hongan-ji (translation: eastern Hongan-ji temple). These temples were built around 1600AD on opposite sides of the central avenue by opposing Buddhists sects and seem to be trying to out-do each other in terms of size and majesty. Not that different to how things were done in Europe really: “Hey look, my church is bigger than your church!” and all that. Reading about the involvement of various religious sects in ancient Japanese politics reminds me a lot of European history too – seems human beings everywhere have found a way to use religion as an excuse to make a grab for power and wealth. Not so much today, but one could say that our modern version of these “religious sects” are the multi-national corporations we all worship at the church of “The Mall”.

In regards to the temples, my vote for supremacy went to Nishi-Hongan-ji temple, not for its momentous size, but for the 400 year old ginkgo tree growing in its courtyard. Ginkgo trees grow so slowly that seeing one this large was truly epic. The fruits of these tress have long been held in regard for their ability to promote wisdom and longevity, so having one within temple grounds seems fitting.

Higashi-Hongan-ji temple – it is BIG.

Nishi-Hongan-ji temple & the 400 years old Ginkgo tree.

Once our sightseeing was done we went back to our ryokan to check-in and fell in love with Kyoto and Ryokan Kyo-raku. Kyoto streets really are like something straight form the movies: narrow lanes that barely fit a car, lined with townhouses and wooden-fronted shops and paved in stone. We saw a number of people walking streets, going about their daily business, wearing traditional Japanese geta (translation = wooden sandals, worn over socks), with yakatas(translation = informal version of a kimono). The ryokan we are staying at fits perfectly into this setting – it is a narrow, 3 storey wooden building with 15 traditional Japanese-style rooms (ie: where you sleep on futon mattresses laid out on tatami mats), some with their own private bathrooms, most with access to a shared traditional Japanese bathroom (including ours). It’s just soooo cute!

A note on Japanese bathrooms: Much has been written about the fabled modern Japanese toilet, with its in-built seat warmer and bidet facility, but be warned, dear prospective visitor to Japan, that this marvel of modern toiletry is not the traditional Japanese toilet. No, a TRADITIONAL Japanese toilet is in fact a squat toilet. And I have been put to shame people, as I struggle to get into that position, whilst 90 year old Japanese grandmothers manage it with ease. I’m starting to think that squat toilets are part of this country’s secret to longevity – eat lots of fish and vegetables, cycle or walk everywhere, and squat every day, at least twice per day. There is no better recipe for maintaing your flexibility and fitness I think! As well as a squat toilet, a traditional Japanese bathroom includes a deep, communal bath filled with hot water, beside which sits a stool, a hose and some washing apparatus. The idea being you sit on the stool, lather yourself up and clean yourself, then rinse yourself off before going into the bath to soak. All very hygienic and healthy, but very different to what we’re used to. Fortunately for us here the bathrooms are gender-segregated – often they aren’t!

We love Ryokan Kyo-raku! 

Our room at Ryokan Kyo-raku, Kyoto.

To finish off our first day in Kyoto we went searching for a traditional Japanese dining experience. Did we find it? Oh yes! We found this great little tepanyaki bar where the chef cooked our gyoza (translation = Japanese dumplings), yakitori (translation = grilled chicken on a skewer) and okonomiyaki (translation = Japanese omelette thingy) on a hot grill right in front of us. It was everything you could want from a Japanese restaurant: friendly, fun, smokey and yummy!

Does this look like a good place for dinner? Hell yes!

Tepanyaki goodness!


3 replies »

  1. Bingo! Finally something you could identify & yummy to eat – we were going to send you some food parcels…. Love your blogs. Very informative. Glad you’re loving every bit of your travels. Still many countries, strangers & even stranger food to see & experience.

  2. Forgot to warn Shane about the Japanese toilets and the fact that you’re more likely to find them in a ryokan than a “western” hotel.

    Not sure I am impressed by the constant references to squatting and flexibility. More than once I have managed to put a foot in it – literally, and much to my chagrin.

    Very glad you figured out the bathing arrangements. Nothing clears a Japanese bath more quickly than an unwashed gaijin making for the communal waters.


    Have serious travel envy right now.

    • Funnier now that we can relate, Pat. The biggest lesson I’ve learnt re traditional toilets is the instructions provided (when you look for them, and they sure as hell aren’t in the bloody loos where they might help in that initial moment of blind panic as you glare at what may as well be the captains chair of the starship enterprise for all the chance you think you have of driving it) are for white gymnasts. Yeah, sure I can get down there. And after getting over the giggles at what I can see of myself in this position, the panic sets in… Can I get back up? No hand rails. No way on gods earth am I planting my hands on the fruitful “soil” beneath me to push off… I found myself with a slight muscular strain today and I’m damn near certain the hop bog was the cause. I still giggle every time I set up in one of these. Then giggle more as I try to imagine what the honourable locals must be thinking of the lunatic gaijin cackling away behind the door in what is a place of very serious business….

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